Keep Your Motor Running - Maintenance Tips For Your Motorcycle

The Bottom Line Take care of yourself and your bike and you'll have miles of smiles!

This article is part 2 in a series focusing on the total motorcycle ownership experience. Feel free to check out the other articles in the series as well:

Part 1 - Get Your Motor Running...A Guide To Buying A New Motorcycle

Introduction

Sooo....you went out and bought yourself a two-wheel dream, did ya? You did the research, searched high and low for the bike you wanted, forked over the funds, and now you have your new scooter home in its new spot in the garage. But what now? You read the owners manual, but that was less than helpful in the arena of maintaining the bike. What do you need to do to keep your bike running (and running safely) for the years to come?

Fear not, new rider! This review will introduce you to some of the most common maintenance elements necessary to keep you on the road and will (hopefully) keep you from making some serious newbie mistakes, which could damage your new bike.

DISCLAIMER: Remember...the information in this review is for your informational purposes only. It is not meant to be an all-inclusive list of what you need to do to keep your motorcycle in operating condition. If you are not comfortable doing your own maintenance, then leave it up to the qualified professionals at your dealership.

Whew....now that the legalese is over...let's get to the good stuff.

Understanding Your Motorcycle's Specific Maintenance Needs

Before you break out the tools and start getting your hands greasy, it's a good idea for you to do a little analysis as to what kind of maintenance your bike will need. Different types of bikes and different types of riding need different types of maintenance, and knowing what your bike needs will ensure that you don't miss an element of maintenance.

Motorcycle Type

It should seem obvious that different types of bike need different types of maintenance, but some riders simply see a set of two wheels, a seat, and handlebars and assume that the maintenance will be the same. This is far from the truth, however!

Think about it....Dirt bikes need much different types of maintenance than cruisers do. The abuse that dirt bikes take and the amount of dirt that they ingest at the track warrants a much different maintenance regiment. The following gives an very brief overview of the different types of maintenance that different styles of bikes need:

Cruisers - One of the most popular style of bike on the road nowdays, and actually one that usually requires a very straight-forward maintenance regiment. In many cases, changing fluids, checking tire pressure, caring for the drive train, and washing/waxing regularly will be the typical regiment. Proper winterization will also extend the life of your cruiser.

Dirt bikes - As mentioned earlier, dirt bikes take a lot of abuse. After a long day of pounding the track, the suspension and frame should be inspected for damage, the motor needs special care to ensure that heat or dirt have not caused damage, and (especially if it's a two-stroke) special care needs to be taken in understanding the fluid needs of these bikes.

Tourers - Long trips and extended mileage can take a heavy toll on the tires and suspensions of tourers. In addition, lots of miles in time in the elements can also result in rusted components and take a toll on the electrical system, Each should be inspected frequently, as well as other maintenance items such as brake pads, drive belt or shaft, and fluid levels.

Superbikes - When it comes to superbikes, it's usually about speed and cornering. This means ensuring that your motor is taken care of with the proper fluid changes, your tires are in top-notch condition, and your chain is adjusted appropriately. The last thing you want is to dive into a twisty and end up with your rear-end slipping out from under you. Depending on how hard you push your superbike, maintenance could make the difference between a good day on the road and a hospital visit.

Street-Sport - Any time you start pushing a bike that was designed for every-day riding to speed and cornerning limits, maintenance will increase. Street-Sport bikes like the Honda SuperHawk and the BMW K1200 series are designed for everyday riding, but also offer some of the performance features that superbikes or dirt bikes offer. Depending on how you ride the bike, the maintenance will differ. Ride it like a cruiser and maintenance will be pretty straight forward. Ride it like a superbike or dirt bike, and more maintenance will be required.

Riding Style

Another factor that will affect the amount and type of maintenance that your bike will require is how you ride it. If you're easy on the throttle, take the twisties slowly, and generally cruise, then your bike will typically require different maintenance than if you drag pegs in the corners, run your bike at high speeds, or frequent the burnout pits at rallies.

Be aware of your riding style and adjust your maintenance accordingly. While a consistent maintenance regiment is necessary for every bike, those bikes that are pushed to their limits will require additional maintenance.

General Maintenance Tips

Once you understand the type of bike that you own and your intended riding style, you can start digging into what general maintenance your bike will required.

NOTE: I highly recommend that you buy the Maintenance Manual for your bike. This book can be very valuable to anyone doing basic to complex maintenance. They can usually be bought from your local dealership for about $30 or from sites like eBay for a bit less.

Engine Maintenance

Basic motor maintenance should be a no-brainer for all motorcycle owners. Change your oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles using the manufacturer's recommended oil, change out the coolant every two years with the recommended coolant, and change your spark plugs every couple of years and your motor should continue running for many miles. New motorcycle owners usually get in trouble when they do one of the following:

1) Put car oil in your motorcycle - DON'T. I repeat...DON'T. If you have a clutch system that shares engine oil (and many motorcycles do), you'll hose your clutch plates. Car oils contain friction reducers that are not meant for motorcycles....so don't use them.
2) Start swapping out your manufacturer recommended oil with synthetics - This always starts huge debates among motorcycle riders, but your manufacturer designed your motorcycle to work with their oil. Spend the extra couple of dollars at the dealership and stick with the recommended oil. Trust me...it's worth a few extra bucks each year to keep your motor in good health.
3) Forget about their coolant system - If your bike has a radiator, it's easy to forget to change your coolant. Buildup and grunge in your radiator can be a quick way to cause your motor to overheat. Keep your coolant system clean by flushing the radiator every couple of years and changing the coolant out. As with motor oils, use the recommended coolant...car coolants like Prestone contain silicates that can be very harmful to your water pump and cause the seals to fail. Therefore, you'll need to use coolant designed for motorcycles.

Body Maintenance

Body maintenance is another area that should be relatively easy, but there are some pitfalls to watch out for. After each extended ride, and especially after rides in the dirt or rain, take a few minutes to wipe down your bike with a cotton cloth. This will help reduce the amount of road-grime that builds up, which can play havoc with chrome and paint.

Also, be sure you wipe bug guts from around your from forks seals (the section of your front forks where the upper forks join with the lower forks). The acids in bug guts can break down your fork seals, causing premature failure. A couple good wipes can make your seals last longer.

For the painted areas of your bike, only use clean, soft cloths. Believe it or not, old white socks are great because they are terrycloth on the inside. Just cut them in half and wipe the bike down. If you're really picky, you can buy new terrycloth rags at your local auto store. Avoid using abrasive cloths on your paint as it can scratch or swirl the clearcoat and cause the luster to fade over time.

Wash your bike thoroughly every couple of weeks, but be cautious of using power sprayers. Believe it or not, there are areas of your bike where you don't want water and power sprayers are good at getting water into every orafice of your bike.

Also make sure to wax your bike with a good Carnuba wax a couple times a year. Forget paying for the high-dollar designer waxes out there, a good Carnuba from a reputable company like Maguires or Mothers will do just fine and will keep your painted surfaces shining.

New motorcycle owners usually get in trouble when they do one of the following:

1) Washing their motorcycles at car washes - Just not a good idea. Those power washers are really meant for cars that are sealed. When you use a power washer, you risk getting water into your electrical or fuel system. It's best to avoid them and bucket/hose wash.
2) Forgeting to wipe off bug guts. I mention this again, because it's often overlooked. Just wipe them off.
3) Using Windex to clean windshields - DON'T...DON'T...DON'T!!!! Motorcycle windshields are typically made of a product called Lexan. Windex is designed for cleaning glass and after time, Windex will cause Lexan to haze. For windshields, use a product called Plexar, which is designed specifically designed for Lexan.
4) Using paper towels from gas stations to wipe off spilled gas - Again...DON'T. You're better off wiping off those spilled drops with your cotton t-shirt. Next time you are at a gas station, wipe one of those paper towels against your face....feels like sandpaper, eh?? Think about what those do to your clearcoat every time you use one.
5) Ignoring chrome surfaces when washing the bike - Remember that just because it's chrome-plated doesn't mean it can't rust. When you wash your bike, rub down the chrome surfaces with a project like Turtle Wax's Chrome Cleaner and Polish. If you see some rust forming on a chrome surface, this stuff will also remove the rust and protect the surface from future rusting.
6) Covering your bike with blankets during the winter - Sounds like the right thing to do to keep dust off your bike, but in actuality, you could be harming your paint or clearcoat. Typical cotton or polyester blankets can attract moisture. The effect is essentially laying a wet cloth on your bike for an extended period of time. Not really a good idea. If you need to cover your bike, invest in a good motorcycle cover made of nylon that doesn't rest on your paint. I highly recommend the Dowco covers.

Tires

Ever heard the phrase "where the rubber meets the road"? Ever thought about what it means? Usually, when people are talking about the rubber meeting the road, they're talking about where things are actually getting done or where important actions are taken.

Obviously, we understand how important that tiny patch of earth is where the rubber meets the road, but how well you take care of the rubber will directly impact the longevity of your motorcycle. Bad tires often means bad things. Monitoring your tire pressure is one of the easiest ways to keep an eye on the health of your tires. Check your tire pressure before any long ride and every other time you fill up your gas tank. Keep your tires at the level recommended in your manual and watch for any variations.

If you're having to add air frequently, it might be a sign of a slow leak. Don't ignore tire pressure issues because a blow-out or even slow loss of pressure at 60mph is something you don't want to ever experience if you can help it.

Another aspect of tires that you should monitor is tread depth. The easiest way to measure tread depth is to place a penny in the tread grooves of your tires. If all of Abe Lincoln's head is showing, then it's time to swap tires.

New motorcycle owners usually get in trouble when they do one of the following:

1) Failing to check tire pressure - Motorcycle tires don't compress like bicycle tires do when they're underinflated, so a visual inspection of your tires is NOT enough. Get a good quality gauge and check them frequently.
2) Using products like Armor All on their tires - Again...big no-no. This stuff will coat the outsides of your tires to make them shiny, but they will also make them slippery. Not something you want on a motorcycle. Use only soap and water to wash your motorcycles tires.
3) Forgetting to check spokes - If you have spoked wheels, check them every year for loose spokes. When you have your tires replaced, also ask the dealership to check the spokes and tune them appropriately.
4) Riding on bald tires - With motorcycles, traction is key. Riding on bald tires is a recipe for road rash. Check your tread depth frequently and keep a sharp lookout for any cracks or rubber-rot on your tires.

Also, when winterizing your bike, be sure to put a piece of carpet or cardboard under each of your tires. Cold concrete can have an adverse affect on rubber, so the layer of insulation will extend the life of your tires.

Drive Train

Drive train is another area that is often overlooked by new riders. New riders sometimes complain that their is a red, dusty buildup on their engine casing, only to realize that they haven't been oiling their chain and the red dust is oxidation that is being thrown from their chain onto the engine. Oiling the chain or inspecting your drive belt is something that should be done every other time your fill up your tank.

Chains are traditionally stronger than belts are, and are still found on many of the high-torque, high-horsepower superbikes, as well as on dirt bikes. Belt drives tend to last longer and are more resistent to stretching than chains and found on cruisers and some touring bikes. Shaft drives are becoming more and more prevalent among cruisers and tourers, though, and operate similarly to a drive shaft in a car. In the early days of shaft-driven bikes, there was a condition known as shaft-jerk or shaft-lurch, which caused a lot of riders to avoid shaft-driven bikes. That issue has pretty much disappeared and shaft-driven bikes are very commonplace due to the fact that shaft-driven transmissions are relatively maintenance free. Depending on what type of drive train your bike has, you'll need to perform some maintenance.

Chain Driven Bikes - Oil the chain every other time you fill up your tank. Check for chain-stretch and adjust the stretch on your chain according to your owners manual. Replace the chain at recommended period or when the chain stretches beyond the indicators on your bike.

Belt Driven Bikes - Check the belt for wear and adjust the stretch on the belt according to your owners manual. Replace the belt at recommended period or when the belt stretches beyond the indicators on your bike.

Shaft Driven Bikes - Check the final drive fluid annualy and replace the fluid every two years.

Fuel System

Because most motorcycles are not ridden year-round, taking proper care of your fuel system is critical. Letting unstabilized fuel sit in your fuel system can cause performance issues and, in extreme cases, cause damage to your carburetors or fuel injectors. Fuel goes bad after a few months and begins to break down. The result is a varnish buildup in your fuel system. This buildup can cause float needs to stick, floats to perform incorrectly, and fuel injectors to clog.

In addition, if you don't top of your fuel tank at the end of the riding season, you risk oxidation in your fuel tank. As a result, rust particles can drop into your tank and be sucked into your fuel system. So what can you do? Believe it or not, it's really easy. Follow these steps and you'll be good to go each year:

1) At the end of the riding season, top off your fuel tank.
2) Add a fuel stabilizer to your tank. I prefer a product called Sea Foam, but have also used Sta-Bil with good results.
3) Run your fuel system long enough to circulate the stabilizer throughout your fuel system. I usually ride 5 miles or so.
4) Park your bike and turn off your fuel petcock (if your bike has one).

It's that easy. If you get a nice day and ride during the winter, be sure the top the tank off and re-stabilize. In the Spring, your bike should start right up and run smoothly.

Leather/Vinyl

Caring for leather and vinyl is a relatively simple matter, but one that requires attention. The vinyl and leather areas of your bike are usually the seat, saddlebags, and any luggage. These areas are usually exposed to the elements (and your periodic bike washes) so it's a good idea to invest a good leather balm or protectant and apply it on a regular basis.

I usually go over the leather and vinyl on my bike on the same routine as waxing the paint job. Keep in mind that ignoring these items (especially real leather), can result in cracks and tears in your expensive accessories.

Electrical

Although most motorcycles have an electrical system that is shielded from the elements, there are still some preventative measures you can take to ensure that your bike has the juice it needs. As I mentioned earlier, staying away from high-pressure washes is the first step. The second is to periodically inspect your bike's wiring harnesses for cracks or tears. Be sure to pay close attention to any wiring that is located near a heat source (like exhaust or the motor) or are exposed to the elements (like those running along your handlebars).

Another tip for maintaining your bike's electrical system is to purchase a trickle charger for your battery.

NOTE: A battery charger and a trickle charger are two entirely different things. A battery charger that you use to charge your car battery is not the proper way to charge a motorcycle battery.

A trickle charger will run you $30-$40 at any auto supply charge and will slowly charge your battery to the proper level. This slow charge extends your battery life. Also, during the winter it's a good idea to leave your motorcycle battery on your trickle charger so that the batter is continually charging. This is great for those sunny winter days when you just need to go out for a ride. If your battery is charged and your fuel system is stabilized, your bike should start right up and you'll be ready to ride.

Miscellaneous

The last area of maintenance that we'll talk about is the miscellaneous categories. These maintenance items don't necessarily

fall into any of the logical categories above, but still need to be done:

1) Tighten Bolts - This is especially true if your bike has a single-pin V-Twin motor. Every bike vibrates, so bolts loosen. Single-pin V-Twins (like Harleys and some metric cruisers have added vibration, so inspecting bolts is a must.
2) Lubing Cables - If your bike has cables such as clutch cables, speedo cables, etc....you'll need to lube them periodically. Search ebay and look for a cable-luber. It's a nice tool that will save you time and keep your cables in good shape.
3) Inspect hoses - If you run a hydraulic clutch or a water-cooled motor, be sure to inspect the hoses for rot.
4) Inspect your gear - Make sure your helmet fits securely, your gloves are comfortable, your boots have good tread, and your jacket isn't one of those cheapy italian stone leather jackets that will tear apart like paper. Buy good equipment and it will take care of you.
5) Take care of yourself - Remember that the weakest part of a motorcycle is the nut that connects that handlebars to the seat. If you drive while tired, after drinking, or when taking medications, your asking for trouble.

Well, that's about it for round 2 in this series about motorcycle ownership. If you liked this review, be sure to check out some of my other motorcycle and motorcycle-related reviews:

Part 1 - Get Your Motor Running...A Guide To Buying A New Motorcycle

Honda Rebel 250 - Good Starter Bike, But Easily Outgrown

Honda Shadow VLX 600 - A Great V-Twin Starter Bike

Shake, Rattle, and Roll - My Harley Sportster Experience

Suzuki Savage 650 - Excellent Starter Bike For Small Riders

VTR1000 Honda SuperHawk Is An Excellent V-Twin Sport Bike...For A Niche Market

2000 Yamaha Virago - A Great First Bike!

Honda Shadow ACE 750 - A High Quality Mid-Range Cruiser

Until next time, keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down :)

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